Lithops dinteri in a sparse, lean mineral substrate
Photo: derevvPixabay-Content-License

Care Fundamentals

Fertilizing Lithops: when, how little, and why

Lithops do not need fertiliser to survive. They do benefit from a tiny, well-timed dose once a year. Everything else is too much.

By Editorial Team6 min read

What the plant takes from the substrate

Lithops evolved on mineral soils that are nearly devoid of nitrogen and modestly stocked with potassium and phosphorus. The plant is metabolically slow and stores nutrients efficiently. In a fresh mineral mix, a healthy adult has enough reserves for at least two full seasons without any added feeding.

When a small dose helps

Once per year, during the early-to-mid active growth window for your species (autumn for most), a single very dilute feed can improve flower size and seed set in mature plants. Use a low-nitrogen cactus fertiliser at quarter strength — roughly 50 ppm total dissolved fertiliser, not the 200 ppm typical houseplant strength.

Plants under one year old and any Lithops within 6 weeks of a repot do not need feeding at all. The repot itself reset their root zone.

Symptoms of too much

Overfed Lithops bloat, the body becomes glassy and translucent, the window stretches and pales, and the cleft starts to split irregularly. By the time you see those signs, the only fix is to stop, flush the pot, and ride out the next molt — that pair will look better.

Frequently asked questions

What N-P-K ratio is best?
Low and balanced, with N below P and K. Something like 2-7-7 or 0-10-10 at quarter strength once per year.
Foliar feeding?
No. The window does not absorb the way leaves of other succulents do, and any droplet sitting in the cleft is a rot risk.
Organic fertilisers?
Avoid. They release nitrogen slowly and unpredictably, and the carbon load encourages fungus gnats in the top of the substrate.

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Written by the Editorial Team. Spotted an error or want to add a regional note? Send corrections or apply to contribute.